Texas Monthly

This strip-center Chinese diner, freshly spiffed up, draws everyone from local chefs to tourists from New York.

A clear menu and a friendly staff make for a genuine welcome

We started with crisp calamari “sauced” with bits of red chile, five-spice powder, and Sichuan peppercorns. Sautéed green beans kept the flavors coming. All said, the absolute emperor at this feast was silky, meltingly tender eggplant, simply adorned with chile flakes and garlic.

All said, the absolute emperor at this feast was silky, meltingly tender eggplant, simply adorned with chile flakes and garlic.

A clearer menu and a friendly staff make for a genuine welcome, even if you have to wait for a table.

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